Tree to Planters
Planters become the solution to the removal of a tree that was interfering with underground pipes.
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With the underground pipes fighting for the same space, we found ourselves calling a plumber to determine the cause of things draining slowly inside. As you can imagine, it was the roots from this tree that had to be cleared out. This left us with the decision of whether to keep the tree and replace the pipes; remove the tree or try something else.
While we liked the look of the tree and it was great for decorating around Christmas, it was a discounted tree that we got for just $15 on clearance: one we never imagined would grow as large as it did. Long story short, we weren’t committed to keeping it, so out it came.
This left us with the dilemma of needing to fill the space, but not with something that would have roots interfering with the pipes—enter the idea of planter boxes.
To be fair, the planter boxes seemed a little daunting, and I struggled to determine the style that we wanted. There just wasn't anything available locally that was the right size, scale, and affordable. Then I found another DIY blogger, Ana White (ana-white.com), who had a great video showcasing how to make these the easy way. I took it a little further because I wanted a more finished look; so additional trim was added, but the concept is the same.
The easy way? Simple, take the cedar fence boards, lay them out on a flat surface side by side, making sure that the ends are lined up. Measure your board width once they are all lined up; this will be the height of your planter when completed. As with most things I need to repeat, once I had the first build down, the rest of these were fairly quick and simple. This entire project took me two days to complete, (not including planting time).
As with any project where you are working with power tools, always follow the manufacturer's safety recommendations, and wear eye protection.
Gather your supplies and tools (see lists below).
Pattern Example
Start by marking your cedar boards with a 5° angle using a speed square. Refer to the pattern example for how to mark these. Ensure that the widest spaces on the pattern (between the lines) are all the same width. For the largest planter, I used 20" as the width between the lines at their widest point. Next, cut your 1x2s to the length of your total width (38.5" for the largest planter (5.5" wide boards x 7). I used a compound sliding miter saw set to a 5° cutting angle to make my cuts.
Using a brad nailer and 1-inch nails, attach your 1x2s to the cedar boards on the inside of your marks (opposite the cut side), placing two nails in each cedar board through the 1x2. Complete this process for all the remaining lines in the pattern except for the last one. For the last line, you will simply draw the line and trim the ends off these boards.
Once you have attached the 1x2 boards, extend your pattern over the edge of your flat surface, clamp it in place, and use a circular saw to cut along the "cut side" of the 1x2s. Take your time with this, and make sure you are using a sharp blade. I first tried this with an old corded circular saw and was quite surprised by the difference when I used a new saw and a fresh blade for the last two planter boxes.
The difference felt like going from cutting through cement to cutting through butter.
As you cut through these, keep in mind that you will use almost every piece of the cedar boards, with the exception of the two end cuts. I recommend gathering any loose pieces after performing your cuts and organizing them to expedite your process.
Cut your 1x3s next, starting with a 5° angle on the bottom piece. Place it on the planter's side, mark the top, then cut with another 5° angle, paying close attention to the direction of the angle cut. Attach the 1x3, overlapping the existing 1x2 with just a bit of the 1x2 showing. I used another 1x2 on the opposite side to make it easier to judge the placement. After attaching the 1x3s on all four corners, follow with 1x2s on the opposite sides of the 1x3s, again using 5° cuts.
Once all the side trim pieces were complete, I added a 1x3 top trim to the box to finish off the top. For these cuts, I used 45° angle cuts and nailed them in from each side at the corners and from the top down. The final trim pieces were 1x2s placed on the front, back, and sides of the planters just below the top trim pieces.
Getting Started
The Inside
Honestly, one of the more difficult aspects of this project was deciding what to use as a liner or filler for the planters, since I didn’t want to just fill them with dirt. As I mentioned before, I didn’t want anything that would develop roots going into the ground, which was the main reason for this entire project.
I explored a few ideas and actually found plastic pots in a similar shape and height at my local Wal-Mart, marked down to $15 each. However, I thought I could do better than $45 for the pots (which was not a bad price, but more than I wanted to spend). Amazon came to the rescue with a product called Plant Grow Bags. I ordered a 5-pack of 20-gallon bags for a "limited deal" of $18.89, down from the regular price of $20.99, which I still considered a good deal. These are thickened nonwoven aeration fabric pots with strap handles that claim to last for years, and this way, I figured I could switch them out if needed.
The Plant Grow Bags are stated to be 16" in height, so I placed a false bottom in each of the boxes using scrap lumber I already had, allowing the bags to rest on top.
The Finish
So, it’s towards the end of summer, and hitting up the clearance rack at the local home improvement store seemed like the logical choice since we weren’t entirely sure what we wanted for these planters. We managed to shop from the clearance rack and get products to fill them for around $40, including the soil. Once the planters were in place, we put in the growing bags (which I highly recommend—see "Shop the Post" below), loaded them with dirt, planted the new plants, and we were done.
We’re really pleased with the outcome and saved a bundle compared to what it would have cost at a local store.
Cheers!
Applying a Sealant
Before applying the urethane, I lightly sanded all of the corners and any rough areas, and then used a blower to remove the dust. I then brushed a coat of Behr SPAR urethane over the first level of boards on the inside of the planter boxes and on all of the exterior surfaces (including trim pieces) of the planters. Be sure to use urethane with "SPAR" in the name, as this provides the best resistance against water and UV rays.
The Cuts
What started as a small tree that we planted shortly after we moved in eventually became the master of the front yard. Now, I'm not talking about it being taller than the house or anything in that regard, but if the intertwined maze of branches at the top of the tree was any indication of what the root system was like, it was no wonder this tree eventually became a problem that had to be dealt with.
When everything is cut, you're ready to assemble. This may take a couple of minutes to get used to, but just remember that the 1x2s will be on the outside of the planter box.
Start with the bottom piece, extending it to the edge of the 1x2, and attach it with a single nail on each side. Next, place the remaining pieces in order (without nailing them yet) from smallest to largest, working from bottom to top. Nail only the top board first to ensure everything is stabilized before you line up and nail the remaining boards. Use two nails on each side of each board. Flip the assembly and repeat the process on the other side.
The Build & Trim Out
Materials
Cedar Fence Boards 5/8"x5.5"x6'
1"x2"x8' furring strips
1"x3"x8' furring strips
Brad or Finish Nails 1" to 1&1/4"
SPAR Urethane
Tools
Eye Protection (safety goggles)
Brad Nailer or Hammer (finish or claw)
Compound Miter Saw or Hand-held Miter Saw
Circular Saw or Hand-held Saw
Sander (I used a detail sander)
Blower (optional)
Paint Brush
Project Wins
What I thought was going to be a lot of cuts didn't turn out to be at all.
Once you get the first one built, the others are fairly easy to complete.
Project Fails
A couple of things. First my miter saw gave up the ghost on the last planter box. We won't go into how old the thing was. It lived a good life and was well used. Secondly, I learned a lesson that I already knew which was to always use sharp tools, don't let your blades go dull, it makes the work that much harder.
Shop the Post
Kevin Gallaher is the owner of this blog, papapinterest.com. I have applied a skill level based on my own experience and provided minimal instructions on how to achieve a similar outcome. Please remember that this blog is for entertainment purposes only. With all the posts on papapinterest.com, be certain to read and understand the project before starting. Build at your own risk and be safe. We will not be responsible for any injury or damage incurred while following any post from our site. None of our posts should be considered expert advice, so please consult a professional when necessary. Be sure to read and understand all safety and instruction manuals, and take safety precautions seriously. All projects performed from posts found on our site are done at your own risk.
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